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Riviera journal

Getting Around the French Riviera Without a Car

On the Cannes – Nice – Monaco – Menton line, the train links Nice to Monaco in 25 minutes and Nice to Cannes in 36 to 43 minutes. There are even departures after midnight, the last one leaving Nice-Ville at 01:24. But on the late-evening panel of the official timetable, only two columns run every single day.

The coastal train does most of the work

The Grasse – Cannes – Nice – Ventimiglia line is the spine of the coast, and it is better than its reputation. Nice to Monaco takes 25 minutes, Monaco back to Nice 22 to 29 minutes, Nice to Cannes 36 to 43 minutes, Cannes to Grasse 25 minutes. None of those times depends on A8 traffic, which is the main argument in favour of rail and is rarely the one people make.

Short hops are where the gap is widest. Beaulieu-sur-Mer is ten minutes from Nice for €2.90, and eleven minutes from Monaco for €3.40. No car, at any level of comfort, beats that on a Tuesday morning.

Two warnings before building a whole stay on rail. The timetable in force, dated 15 January 2026 and valid until 12 December 2026, schedules major engineering works on Saturday 28 March, Saturday 13 June, Saturday 19 September and from Monday 9 to Thursday 12 November. The Cannes to Grasse branch closes from 14 to 20 September and on 5 and 6 December. On those days the switch to the road is automatic, and everyone makes it at the same time.

The problem is not arriving, it is getting back

You will often read that there is no train after midnight on this coast. That is false, and it is worth knowing. The official timetable prints departures from Nice-Ville towards Monaco at 00:04, 00:23, 01:05 and 01:24, with arrivals at Monaco-Monte-Carlo as late as 01:50. Going the other way, Monaco sends trains back at 00:29, 00:49, 01:05 and 01:23. Westbound, Nice-Ville still despatches services at 00:15, 00:54, 01:15 and 01:49, the last printed arrival in Cannes being 02:30.

The real problem sits elsewhere and it is sneakier. The late-evening panel of that timetable carries a row of running codes: Friday only, Saturday only, Sunday only, Friday to Sunday, not on Fridays and Saturdays. Only two columns on that panel are marked as running every day. Every other column is restricted to particular evenings.

In plain terms: the late train exists, but you cannot count on it on a Tuesday without checking the exact column for that date. That nuance changes how you plan an evening in Monaco or a dinner in Cannes. It is also verifiable, unlike the convenient claim that nothing runs after midnight.

Nice, where the network actually works

This is the city where going car-free is easiest. Tram line 2 links the airport to Port Lympia, with a service advertised at roughly every five minutes, from 04:25 to 01:35. It does not run on 1 May. Between Terminal 2, Terminal 1 and Grand Arénas it is free.

One trap before you rent an old car: the metropolitan low-emission zone has changed shape. Since the order of 11 April 2025, restrictions apply only to goods vehicles over 3.5 tonnes, buses and coaches in the two dirtiest emission classes. Light vehicles are no longer covered, contrary to what a great many third-party sites still repeat.

A second piece of ground truth, at the station: the forecourt of Nice-Ville is described by the metropolitan authority as one hundred percent pedestrian, with a 130-space drop-off area. A car cannot pull up to the door. Pick-up happens on the avenue Thiers side, and knowing that saves ten minutes of wandering with suitcases.

Buses fill the gaps the railway leaves. On the western side, the free shuttle 44 runs from the coach station in central Cagnes-sur-Mer to the Square Bourdet area every twenty minutes, from 07:00 to 22:30, extended to 00:30 in July and August, every day of the year. Services of that kind are the reason a coastal stay without a car is realistic in the first place, and the reason the argument for a chauffeur has to rest on something other than the absence of alternatives.

Cannes and Monaco: two arrivals, two sets of rules

In Cannes the station sits a six-minute walk from the Palais des Festivals, which makes the train formidable for a day return. The constraint is elsewhere: Le Suquet and the Carré d’Or are formal pedestrian zones created by permanent municipal orders, referenced 24-2551 and 24-2559. A car stops at the edge of the zone, not at the door. A wheeled case and the Suquet steps are a poor combination.

Monaco inverts the logic: rail drops you in the middle of the Principality, but the last few hundred metres are regulated. The Rock is closed to vehicles not registered in the Principality or in the Alpes-Maritimes, barring a waiver from the town hall. A car hired in Milan or Geneva will not drive up to Monaco-Ville. A local plate will.

Between the two cities, regional coach line 600 follows the lower corniche and gives a useful string of landmarks: Nice Square Normandie-Niemen, Port Lympia, Pont Saint-Jean, Baie des Fourmis, Beaulieu-sur-Mer station, Èze station, Cap-d’Ail, then Place d’Armes, Sainte-Dévote and Monte-Carlo Casino. It is the scenic road, not the fast one.

Cap-Ferrat and Saint-Tropez, where the network stops

The Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat peninsula has no station. The town hall sets out the public route: tram 2 to Port Lympia then bus 15 to the port of Saint-Jean, or regional line 100 to Beaulieu-sur-Mer station and a connection onto the 15. It works, provided you travel light. The local traffic order also bans vehicles over 8 metres long throughout the village zone, and vehicles over 2 metres tall from the Centenaire, Cros dei Pin and Lido car parks. Dimensions are checked before departure, not at the barrier.

Saint-Tropez is the extreme case. The town lies 112 kilometres from Nice and 91 from the airport, with no rail link at all. And since a municipal notice of 22 May 2026 the commune regulates paid-transport vehicles in the centre directly: from 23 May to 30 August 2026, traffic is restricted on boulevard Vasserot from 16:00 to 20:00 and on the traverse de la Gendarmerie from 19:00 to 03:00, on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Seven drop-off bays were created on avenue Foch, boulevard Vasserot, avenue Paul Roussel, avenue de la Résistance, boulevard Louis Blanc and rue du 11 Novembre. The driver does not choose the stopping point; the commune assigns it.

The boat, the one alternative that saves time

This is the only option that genuinely beats the road, and it does so on one specific run. The town of Saint-Tropez lists Les Bateaux Verts for links with Sainte-Maxime and Port-Grimaud, and the operator advertises the Sainte-Maxime crossing at 15 minutes. By road the same journey funnels through the La Foux junction, which is the bottleneck of the gulf in summer.

One caveat, printed by the operator: this shuttle cannot be booked online, tickets are sold at the counter. Any return plan built on the last sailing therefore needs checking in person, on the day.

What hourly hire changes, and what it does not

A day of visits with several stops is where public transport gives up. Three hill villages, an art foundation, lunch, and you spend more time at stops than at destinations. Hourly hire answers that: an hourly rate, four hours minimum, a 50 km radius around the pickup point, and fuel, tolls and parking included.

What it does not change is the rulebook. The Rock stays closed to foreign plates, the pedestrian zones of Cannes stay pedestrian, and the drop-off bays of Saint-Tropez stay where the commune put them. A driver does not sell you an exemption. He sells you the fact of knowing those rules before you do, and of building the day around them.

The honest conclusion fits in one sentence. Along the coastal axis, by day, with one bag, the train is the best answer and the cheapest. Leave that axis, leave the operating hours, or multiply the stops, and it stops being either.

Before you arrive

Your questions.

Are there trains after midnight between Nice and Monaco?

Yes. The official Grasse – Cannes – Nice – Ventimiglia timetable dated 15 January 2026 prints departures from Nice-Ville at 00:04, 00:23, 01:05 and 01:24, and departures from Monaco towards Nice at 00:29, 00:49, 01:05 and 01:23. These late services carry day codes, so they do not run every night of the week.

How do you reach Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat by public transport?

From the airport, the town hall points to tram line 2 as far as its Port Lympia terminus, then bus 15 towards the port of Saint-Jean. From the east, regional line 100 stops at Beaulieu-sur-Mer station and connects with the 15. Either way it means one change, which is manageable with hand luggage and awkward with hold bags.

Can you reach Saint-Tropez by sea?

Yes. The town lists Les Bateaux Verts, linking Sainte-Maxime, Port-Grimaud and Saint-Tropez, and the operator advertises the Sainte-Maxime crossing at 15 minutes. That shuttle cannot be booked online: tickets are sold at the counter, so an evening return has to be checked on the spot.

Can a car drive up to the Rock of Monaco?

No, apart from exceptions. The Monegasque government's traffic guide states that access to the Rock district is forbidden to all vehicles except those registered in the Principality or in the Alpes-Maritimes, unless a special waiver is issued by the Monaco town hall. A hire car with foreign plates will not get up there.

How much does hourly chauffeur hire cost?

€70 per hour in a high-end saloon and €90 per hour in the seven-seat van, with a four-hour minimum. Fuel, tolls and parking are included in that rate. It is the format that replaces a hire car on a day built around several stops rather than one destination.

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